We often hear that a man with a round face should avoid an extreme wide spread collar but were you aware that every face shape has a style it should avoid like the plague? Here are a list by collar style of those who should run in the other direction.
Button Down Collar
Who should just “not even”? Any guy looking to climb the corporate ladder. If you want to move up at the office, choose a stiff collar and avoid the button down… And dress like a grown man.
Traditional Point Collar
Is there someone who shouldn’t wear a traditional collar? Well, not exactly. I would say if you are a more fashion forward minded man, you should opt for a wide spread collar instead. Otherwise, it’s pretty much a go for everyone.
Narrow Point Collar
Who should avoid it? Anyone who doesn’t like the Goodfellas look. If you are man interested in looking like Ray Liotta make sure you don’t have a long and or lean face. It will accentuate the length of the face and even shorten the beholders view of your neck.
Round or Club Collar
Who shall not? A man with a round or full face or anyone with a barrel chest. This will make either seem even wider. I also think very tall men with a tiny club collar seems odd. Make sure that the collar length fits your height.
Whatever this is called, EVERYONE should avoid it.
So you have the power to choose who makes your custom shirts. Well, your custom shirt maker also has some choices and alternatives they could make. Today, I want to let you know about those fine details some shirt makers may skip and hope you don’t notice.
Stitchy Business: SPI, or “stitches per inch” is extremely important when it comes to the quality of a custom dress shirt. A quality shirt maker should choose a high SPI to enhance not only the seam performance and elasticity but the strength and the appearance of the stitch itself. In case you are wondering our custom dress shirts are made with an SPI of 20. NOT too shabby, huh?
Don’t Blow it on the Fusing: Let’s face it, or shall I say “interface” it? (Sorry, I couldn’t resist.) You’ve probably had to toss out your favorite dress shirt because of a bubbling issue on the collar or cuff at some point. This is so disappointing because the rest of the shirt still looked great on you, right? When a company chooses to use a lesser quality interfacing or the compatibility between the fabric and fusing don’t match up, the bubbles begin. And they won’t iron out. Ever. We use the highest quality German fusing to make our custom shirts.
Hate to Thread Our Own Needle But… When purchasing thread, just hope your shirt tailor doesn’t go the cheap route. First of all strength truly matters to create gorgeous stitching. Also the strength of said thread (sounding like a Dr. Suess book now) must be compatible with the fabric quality. At Best Custom Shirt we choose a superb thread to accompany our fine fabrics. We actually specifically pick the thread based on the fabric that you choose when we create your shirt.
Don’t Yoke it Up: Some custom shirt makers may skimp and avoid the split yoke. We understand the shoulder blade and upper back area is where a lot of your ninja moves originate from so we offer the split-yoke. You need some movement at work as well but feel free to karate chop away!
We choose the 12 Step Program: Our Quality Control department offers 12 steps to ensure the product meets your specs before it ships. I won’t list them all here or you may snooze out on me but know that we focus these efforts on fabric, measurements, thread, stitching, and your styling details.
Does it Matter if My Collar is Bias or Straight? If your collar is cut “straight”, the shirt maker saves money. How, you ask? When the fabric is properly cut for a collar, “on the bias”, it uses more fabric as the fabric is cut in a more circular pattern to fit, well…your neck. It needs to hug your neck which creates a little more fabric waste. Our CHOICE is the bias cut. We are not afraid to lose a little fabric in order to increase the quality of fit of your collar.
Proper Alignment Takes Time: Currently stripes and check shirts are what the ladies like to see you in. We choose to take a little more time to properly align those handsome stripes and the windowpanes of yours to match up. This detail is important to get that crisp looking design you are after.
Collar Stays and Buttons That Stay: Our high quality Giorgenti buttons are always a hit. If you want a specific color to match that Midnight Blue shirt you created online with us, just let us know. We also offer Mother Of Pearl for those who want a little something more. We use removable collar stays on most orders and are always willing to send you extras if you ask. If you prefer the permanent stays, just let us know when you place the order.
Retro-fitting is Out: Again, we could choose the easy way to do this. But we don’t. We DO NOT modify an existing shirt or even an existing shirt pattern. We choose to create a unique pattern for each of our customers. It is true we use a CAD system but there must be a pattern making team there to input the information into the system for the pattern to be created. Inside tip: How do we make sure we don’t mix your pattern up with someone who has the same name? We link your unique pattern to your email address. There are no doppelganger email addresses out there, after all.