As a follow up to my last post about 3 suits to consider purchasing if you are buying a suit this year, I want to cover the shape shifting movement in men’s suits. Designers whose suits are being seen on the runways, seem to be creating looser fitting suits this year.
Now don’t toss that trim fit suit quite yet and keep in mind that these trends do take a few years to catch on. However, if you don’t own a “skinny suit”, now may not be the time to invest in one.
Try a custom suit with a bit more of what tailors refer to as an “allowance”. An allowance is the name for those extra inches added to your chest, waist, and hip measurements to allow room for the torso. In other words, if you have a 38 chest, a tailor cannot make the actual coat chest 38 inches or you wouldn’t be able to button the coat. Make sense?
A typical trim fit coat might add a 5 inch allowance to the chest, waist and hip, for example. Ask the tailor what allowance he uses for a trim fit, for a traditional cut, and for a fuller cut. Now may be the time to go back to the traditional fit.
Expert tip: Make sure he or she also tends to the sleeve fullness.
Ever wondered why you get compliments when wearing a certain shirt or color? Ever wonder why you feel you look less than stellar in another shirt? A man with fair hair and skin may look tired and washed out in white while a man with a darker complexion may look young and vibrant. Understanding your complexion is essential to choosing flattering dress shirt and tie combinations.
Cool Undertones: Fair Complexion, Light to Medium Hair and Eye Color
You have a fair complexion with cool undertones. Your hair color may be platinum, ash blond, silver or ash brown, with blue, gray or soft brown eyes. Softer color dress shirts look best on you. Opt for ivory instead of white, and try pastel colors such as pink, blue, lavender, gray and soft yellow.
Here are some soft color choices for you:
Cool Undertones: Deeper Skin Tone or High Contrast between Hair, Eye and Skin Color
You have a deeper skin tone or a high contrast between your hair color, eye color and skin tone. A bright white shirt is a great choice for your custom dress shirt , as are clear, powerful colors like blue, yellow, pink, purple, gray and black.
Here are some great choices for you to wear from our current fabric selections.
Golden Undertones: Golden Brown or Red Hair and Blue or Green Eyes
You have a golden complexion. You may have blue or green eyes, and golden brown or red hair. To look your best, wear a cream dress shirt and clear colors like blue, peach, golden yellow, violet and sea foam green.
Warm Undertones: Earth Tone Hair, Eyes and Skin
You have an earth tone quality to your coloration and look best in warm, muted colors. Wear ecru instead of white, as well as French blue, salmon, marigold, brown and teal.
Please feel free to send me questions regarding other color choices and let me know if you have trouble finding them on our website! Start your custom shirt order by clicking HERE!
If you have ever taken the online custom dress shirt plunge, you may have encountered a few problems. Here are the 7 most common problems with ordering a made to measure shirt online.
1. The Painful Process-You decide to go for it. You log on and begin answering a few questions about your body type. Then all the sudden the form is asking you for your bone density and exact weight after running a marathon. Okay, I exaggerate but you understand what I am getting at. “Wait a minute. I am not a tailor!” Precisely the reason you began the process, right? At Best Custom Shirt, we make sure to offer two options for the body measurement process. One takes 5 minutes, the other 10, TOPS.
2. The NO ANSWER, answer- Moving along in the measurement form, suddenly it asks for your waist measurement, you follow the instructions and it is 4 inches different than your pant size. You question this. You retake the measurement. Same story. Make a quick call to ask a rep, right? Wait. No phone number? Or better yet, you find one and it is a call center. “Someone will call you back with how to take that measurement in the next 48 hours.” Well, Best Custom Shirt again has you covered. We have an 800 number blaring on the website where you call and speak with someone not only located in the US but someone who works directly with the pattern makers, style department, and shipping clerks. If you have been a customer in the past decade, chances are you talk to me quite often! (It’s me, Meghan)
3. Boring Selections- There’s nothing worse than pouring over the same fabric choices time and again. We have an ever evolving fabric selection. We follow the trends and offer great color selections and new trim and styling options. We love to see the designs of custom dress shirts you create with our fabrics!
4. Irritating Fabrics-Some companies work so hard to make their shirts “non-iron” and “wrinkle-free” that they are actually treating your shirts with Formaldehyde. Yes, I said it. This harsh chemical treatment has been linked to lymph node and testicular cancers in men. Don’t do it. I repeat…Just don’t. (We don’t.)
5. The Dicey Pricey Game-Many companies have one price, HIGH. We offer 3 price points in our fabric lines so you can decide what and where you spend your money. It’s your money to spend, after all. Right?
6. The Pop Up Vendor- Who are these custom shirt makers anyway? There is very little information on where they came from, how long they have been in business, and HOW TO GET IN TOUCH with them. (I know I am bringing that up again but customer service is so important to me.) We were established in 1993 and I personally have been with the company for almost a decade. Wow. I am getting old. I digress. The owner and designer Janine Giorgenti, just Google her if you haven’t heard of her. What I am saying is, We actually know what we are doing.
7. The Shrinking Confidence- So you get the custom dress shirt in the mail from a shirt maker, and it fits! “Yes!”, you think. “Well done!” But alas, you send it to the cleaners and it returns looking like your son’s shirt. We actually factor the shrinkage allowance of each fabric choice into the pattern when we create your personal custom dress shirt pattern. So, although it most likely won’t fit when you open the package, your mom probably told you that you should wash your clothing before you put it on anyway, right?
New Trends, Styles and Dressing Tips are revealed by renowned designer and wardrobe consultant, Janine Giorgenti.