Tag Archives: mens fashion

Knot your Father’s Method

Your choice of neck tie knot can be a touchy subject if you ask your Pops. I have found that change for the old man may not be his forte’.

If you were fortunate enough to have your Dad around when you got that first gig, he most likely taught you the knot of his choice. But did you know that the collar style of your custom dress shirt itself can actually point you in the right direction?

The Casual Approach

When you are working with the less dressy look of our Button Down Collar or even the Hidden Button Down, your tie knot choice should also be a little more  laid back. You may automatically think of the old standby, Four In Hand.  Here is a nice twist on the usual called the Double Four In Hand.

double four in hand
Doubling a Four In Hand keeps the casual  look  updated

 

 

 

 

Source: Trashness

 

 

The Point of Goodfellas

Whether you are just looking to have a more Narrow Point collar or if you want the Extreme Point like in the average Mobster movie, the knot of choice should be the Christensen.

christensen-tie-knot-3xrapuqw
Christensen Knot is currently trending with a Narrow Point

 

 

 

 

 

Source: Fashion Wapper

 

 

Dressing like the Prince of Persia

When working with a Medium Spread collar style, We really like the look of this Persian knot. It fills the spread nicely but isn’t too stuffy.

The-Persian-Knot_KSB8433
A Persian knot is a great choice for a medium spread collar

 

 

 

Source: The House of Maid

 

 

Extreme Measures

When it comes to the Wide Spread or the Extreme Wide Spread (Also known as the Cutaway), we are still big fans of the Windsor Knot. It’s almost tradition now and is great for the office.

how-to-tie-a-tie-full-windsor-knot
Windsor looks sharp with the spread collar of your choice

 

 

 

 

 

Source: Genius.com 

 

 

What are your favorite combinations? As always, I’d love to hear from you!

-Meghan Henley

 

 

 

Quality is Never an Accident…

“Quality is never an accident; it represents the wise choice of many alternatives.” -William A. Foster

Merriam Webster defines choice as “the opportunity or power to choose between two or more possibilities”.  Power, huh? Admit it. You like that word.

power gif

 

 

 

Source: Giphy

So you have the power to choose who makes your custom shirts. Well, your custom shirt maker also has some choices and alternatives they could make. Today, I want to let you know about those fine details some shirt makers may skip and hope you don’t notice.

Stitchy Business: SPI, or “stitches per inch” is extremely important when it comes to the quality of a custom dress shirt.  A quality shirt maker should choose a high SPI to enhance not only the seam performance and elasticity but the strength and the appearance of the stitch itself. In case you are wondering our custom dress shirts are made with an SPI of 20.  NOT too shabby, huh?

20-Stitches-Per-Inch
 High stitches per inch is a hallmark of a quality custom shirt

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Don’t Blow it on the Fusing: Let’s face it, or shall I say “interface” it? (Sorry, I couldn’t resist.) You’ve probably had to toss out your favorite dress shirt because of a bubbling issue on the collar or cuff at some point. This is so disappointing because the rest of the shirt still looked great on you, right? When a company chooses to use a lesser quality interfacing or the compatibility between the fabric and fusing don’t match up, the bubbles begin. And they won’t iron out. Ever. We use the highest quality German fusing to make our custom shirts.

IMG_9651
   Low quality fusing can create this pesky bubbling problem

 

 

 

 

 

 

Source: Male Pattern Baldness

Hate to Thread Our Own Needle But…  When purchasing thread, just hope your shirt tailor doesn’t go the cheap route. First of all strength truly matters to create gorgeous stitching. Also the strength of said thread (sounding like a Dr. Suess book now) must be compatible with the fabric quality. At Best Custom Shirt we choose a superb thread to accompany our fine fabrics. We actually specifically pick the thread based on the fabric that you choose when we create your shirt.

high quality thread2
    Fine thread can make all the difference in stitching

 

 

 

 

 

Source: Hancocks-Paducah

Don’t Yoke it Up: Some custom shirt makers may skimp and avoid the split yoke. We understand the shoulder blade and upper back area is where a lot of your ninja moves originate from so we offer the split-yoke.  You need some movement at work as well but feel free to karate chop away!

Split-Yoke
                       Custom Dress Shirt with a Split Yoke

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We choose the 12 Step Program: Our Quality Control department offers 12 steps to ensure the product meets your specs before it ships. I won’t list them all here or you may snooze out on me but know that we focus these efforts on fabric, measurements, thread, stitching, and your styling details.

images
    Looks like even Sleepy could use a custom dress shirt

 

 

 

 

 

 

Source: Disney

Does it Matter if My Collar is Bias or Straight? If your collar is cut “straight”, the shirt maker saves money. How, you ask? When the fabric is properly cut for a collar, “on the bias”, it uses more fabric as the fabric is cut in a more circular pattern to fit, well…your neck. It needs to hug your neck which creates a little more fabric waste. Our CHOICE is the bias cut. We are not afraid to lose a little fabric in order to increase the quality of fit of your collar.

standard-classic-dress-shirt-collar
    Make sure the collar is cut on the bias to get the proper fit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Proper Alignment Takes Time: Currently stripes and check shirts are what the ladies like to see you in. We choose to take a little more time to properly align those handsome stripes and the windowpanes of yours to match up. This detail is important to get that crisp looking design you are after.

Matching-Stripes-and-Checks
       The Beauty of Aligned Stripes in a Quality Dress Shirt

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Collar Stays and Buttons That Stay: Our high quality Giorgenti buttons are always a hit. If you want a specific color to match that Midnight Blue shirt you created online with us, just let us know. We also offer Mother Of Pearl for those who want a little something more.  We use removable collar stays on most orders and are always willing to send you extras if you ask. If you prefer the permanent stays, just let us know when you place the order.

Extra-Button-and-Collar-Stays
                 Extra Buttons & Collar Stays Just in Case…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Retro-fitting is Out: Again, we could choose the easy way to do this. But we don’t. We DO NOT modify an existing shirt or even an existing shirt pattern. We choose to create a unique pattern for each of our customers. It is true we use a CAD system but there must be a pattern making team there to input the information into the system for the pattern to be created. Inside tip: How do we make sure we don’t mix your pattern up with someone who has the same name? We link your unique pattern to your email address. There are no doppelganger email addresses out there, after all.

cam-software-cad-the-clothing-industry-55072-3631731
CAD system and pattern making help make a custom shirt just that, custom.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Source: Direct Industry

-Meghan Henley

 

 

 

 

 

When the Shirt Hits the Fan

Chest
Correct Measurements Is Key To Getting The Right Fit

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If you have ever taken the online custom dress shirt plunge, you may have encountered a few problems. Here are the 7 most common problems with ordering a made to measure shirt online.

1. The Painful Process-You decide to go for it. You log on and begin answering a few questions about your body type. Then all the sudden the form is asking you for your bone density and exact weight after running a marathon. Okay, I exaggerate but you understand what I am getting at.  “Wait a minute. I am not a tailor!” Precisely the reason you began the process, right?  At Best Custom Shirt, we make sure to offer two options for the body measurement process. One takes 5 minutes, the other 10, TOPS.

2. The NO ANSWER, answer- Moving along in the measurement form, suddenly it asks for your waist measurement, you follow the instructions and it is 4 inches different than your pant size. You question this. You retake the measurement. Same story. Make a quick call to ask a rep, right? Wait. No phone number? Or better yet, you find one and it is a call center. “Someone will call you back with how to take that measurement in the next 48 hours.” Well, Best Custom Shirt again has you covered.  We have an 800 number blaring on the website where you call and speak with someone not only located in the US but someone who works directly with the pattern makers, style department, and shipping clerks. If you have been a customer in the past decade, chances are you talk to me quite often! (It’s me, Meghan)

3. Boring Selections- There’s nothing worse than pouring over the same fabric choices time and again. We have an ever evolving fabric selection. We follow the trends and offer great color selections and new trim and styling options. We love to see the designs of custom dress shirts you create with our fabrics!

4. Irritating Fabrics-Some companies work so hard to make their shirts “non-iron” and “wrinkle-free” that they are actually treating your shirts with Formaldehyde. Yes, I said it. This harsh chemical treatment has been linked to lymph node and testicular cancers in men. Don’t do it. I repeat…Just don’t. (We don’t.)

5. The Dicey Pricey Game-Many companies have one price, HIGH. We offer 3 price points in our fabric lines so you can decide what and where you spend your money. It’s your money to spend, after all. Right?

6. The Pop Up Vendor- Who are these custom shirt makers anyway? There is very little information on where they came from, how long they have been in business, and HOW TO GET IN TOUCH with them. (I know I am bringing that up again but customer service is so important to me.) We were established in 1993 and I personally have been with the company for almost a decade. Wow. I am getting old. I digress. The owner and designer Janine Giorgenti, just Google her if you haven’t heard of her. What I am saying is, We actually know what we are doing.

7. The Shrinking Confidence- So you get the custom dress shirt in the mail from a shirt maker, and it fits! “Yes!”, you think. “Well done!” But alas, you send it to the cleaners and it returns looking like your son’s shirt. We actually factor the shrinkage allowance of each fabric choice into the pattern when we create your personal custom dress shirt pattern. So, although it most likely won’t fit when you open the package, your mom probably told you that you should wash your clothing before you put it on anyway, right?

-Meghan Henley

 

Don’t buy fall clothes without reading this Pantone Color Report 2015

I know. I know. Not ready to let go of summer just yet are you? Well, you can continue to take those evening strolls while the sun is fading, venturing home to your favorite high gravity beer while your custom shirts are being tailored in the latest release of the Fall 2015 PANTONE colors!

Lee Eiseman explains how the Pantone colors are finally masculine enough for your closet. “The Fall 2015 palette is rooted in multi-faceted androgenous colors that portray a kind of effortless sophistication and it’s across both men’s and women’s palettes. It’s the first time, actually, that we are seeing a completely unisex color palette.”

Here are our gorgeous fabric swatch selections that should be on your next order.  Although we show one example per Pantone item, there are many more to choose from.

The dressier fabric choices are of course the solid and stripes but we also offer these colors in the more casual checks, plaids, and flannel fabrics.

PANTONE 16-0110 Desert Sage

Sage L6143-C SAGE6143C

 

 

 

 

PANTONE 17-0627 Dried Herb

M30688 Olive M30688OLIVE

 

 

 

 

PANTONE 15-1340 Cadmium Orange

Peach/White Stripe L30853 L30853PeachWhiteStripe

 

 

 

PANTONE 19-4326 Reflecting Pond

Indigo Blue L6002-B IndigoBlueL6002B

 

 

 

PANTONE 18-4726 Biscay Bay

Teal M20006 TealM20006

 

 

 

PANTONE 18-1438 Marsala

Burgundy L6151-C Burgundy L6151C

 

 

 

PANTONE 16-1144 Oak Buff

Marigold L6417-C   MarigoldL6147C

 

 

 

PANTONE 18-4214 Stormy Weather

Slate Blue L30863 L15307SLATEBLUE

 

 

 

PANTONE 17-3628 Amethyst Orchid

M30803 Purple M30803PurpleCheck

 

 

 

PANTONE 16-2215 Cashmere Rose

L30667 Pink/White L30667PinkWhiteStripe

 

 

 

We would love to hear from you.  What are your thoughts on the choices for Fall?

-Meghan Henley