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How to check the quality of a custom shirt
- Check the fabric content of your custom shirt. Finer dress shirts are made of two-ply, which make the fabrics stronger, softer and wrinkle less.
- Inspect the seam running down the side of the shirt for smoothness and make sure it does not pucker. A high-quality custom shirt has only one line of stitching visible on the side seam, while most commercial shirts have two visible rows of stitches.
- Examine the shirt sleeve a couple of inches above the cuff for a gauntlet button that closes up the sleeve. A gauntlet button and a horizontally placed buttonhole also usually indicate good craftsmanship.
- In Custom striped shirts, check how stripes are aligned. They should match, making a straight line.
- The collar of a great fitting custom shirt should be firm and crisp. It should not be limp and under no circumstances it should have any wrinkles or bubbles (puckering)
- The design of the fabric should match where any two pieces of fabrics meet. For example, where sleeves meet the shoulder.
- A well made custom shirt should have removable stays or built in stays for a crisp, firm look.
- The collar of a fine custom dress shirt should be constructed in two pieces and hand turned.
- The buttons of a high quality custom shirt should be sewn with a cross locked stitch to ensure your buttons stay firmly attached.
Tip:
Two-piece yoke
Top quality custom men's shirts have a two-piece yoke (the part that covers the shoulders). This creates more work but allows for a better fit and more natural drape.
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